N.B. Just reminder that there are links to a map of the route taken (can zoom in and out) and information on distances covered etc. for each riding day in the light blue sub- headings for each day as per below.
Budapest to Szolnok (Day 28: 8 August 2015)
Today we diverted away from the Danube for the final time.

On the way out of the city we spotted a large billboard with “Sorry about our Prime Minister“ printed on it. We should have the same messaged plastered on billboards in Australia – at airports and ports (for any boat people who happen to make it that far).
As we rode out of the city some drivers displayed the impatience (compared to France, Germany and Austria) and unpredictability that we had been warned about e.g. unpredictable as to when they will let you have right of way and when they won’t. However, overall most were okay.
Though it was already going to be a long hot day (mid 30s) somewhere in the deep, dark recesses of our (Trond’s and mine) subconscious’s it was decided (without any consultation with the conscious part of our brains) that the day’s ride should be a bit longer. So we did an extra unplanned12km (30 minutes riding time) or so by the time we were back on route.
In the heat of the later part of the riding day was uncomfortable / unpleasant but not to the point of being distressing. Managed, with Trond’s leading example, to keep a reasonable pace after lunch. The legs felt okay but was it was hot and and I was perspiring voluminously. At least mainly flat gradient and not too much unhelpful winds, varying road surfaces varies but enough good stuff to provide respite/encouragement.

25km or so after the lunch stop we stopped at a small local tavern for a cold drink or two. When I asked the host to fill up my water bottle with tap water she insisted on topping it up with cold soda water from the bar instead (no charge). One patron shook my hand and pressed his cold beer bottle against my leg in an act of sympathy.

That night played pool with Trond – interesting to discuss and agree rules though not too much variation – no more than within different parts of Australia. Result 2-1 Norway’s favour.
Szolnok to Gyula (Day 29: 9 August 2015)
Another long hot day but not so long nor so hot as the day before. Today we managed to stay on course and didn’t add any extra kms. Nonetheless the ride was long and hot enough!
To Trond and myself played leap frog with some other groups due to different riding rythyms – not only riding pace but frequency and duration of stops (refreshments / photographs / flat tire -3rd one for Trond).
Some groups take advantage of riding in a structured format where the leading rider(s) take the brunt of the wind/drag and less effort required by non leading riders to maintain the same pace. However one does need to concentrate a lot more. The discipline needed mean it is less relaxed than riding separated. I generally prefer to let the mind wander and take in the surrounds more than keeping an eye on the rear wheel of someone just in front of me.
We used bike paths where available (in Hungary cyclists are only allowed to ride on the road where a bike path does not exist) – like the roads some bike paths were excellent and others much less so. On the whole though the roads better maintained.

Heat was the main challenge with the gradient being basically flat and overall reasonable riding surfaces. Mainly riding on roads in full sun. Could have done with a bit more shade – very little but it was great when we could avail ourselves of it. Not a lot of traffic and what there was generally gave us a wide berth if we were on the road.
I’ve built up a bit of endurance – riding for longer without feeling the need for a break. Morning stop ~45km, “Lunch” ~70km, Afternoon stop ~95km


As per last night some of the group took advantage of availability of cheap rooms instead of pitching their tents. I’ve coined the term doing a “Rinda” as Rinda is not known for her love of camping and seeks a cabin or hotel bed wherever the option is there to avail herself of. However I like, as Kathy aptly put it, to do what I signed up for.
Large campsite though not large enough to absorb the sound of the school brass band practicing.
Optimist – Anyone who expects to go to sleep before 10:00pm (unless using good ear ear plugs) when sharing a campground with with a large group of school kids.
Gyula to Betuni (Day 30: 10 August 2015)
As I placed my packed bag on the pile ready to be loaded into the truck just after 7:00am Trond approached saying “Stephen, what sort of a time do you call this? A bit late aren’t you” He was enjoying this rare opportunity of being ready before me. In fact he hadn’t realized how early he was, as when he went to get his breakfast he was told by Vilma that it wasn’t yet time “but I’m never early for breakfast” he thought in his surprise.

The border crossing into Romania from Hungary was just a few kilometres from our camp. For the first time since arriving in Paris we actually needed our passports and as a bonus got both an exit stamp (Hungary) and an entry stamp (Romania).
I did appreciate having my passport at this juncture more than usual, as when we were in Freiburg I misplaced it. I had had it with me when we arrived at the hotel as I though that I might need it to check in. So it was in my bum bag (waist bag) when we went exploring the town. Some three hours later when we arrived back in the room at the hotel I realized that I did not have it. So calmly (it’s true) we retraced our steps however by this stage the two bike shops we visited had closed so it was onto the Dona Kebab shop. When I asked the person behind the counter if they had seen my passport they indicated not. At the same time I recollected what I had done in that shop and just a couple of paces away next to the cash register in a darkend corner lay my dark blue passport (where it had lay for the previous 2.5 hours or so)! 😅
Our large group of cyclists considerably increased the volume of travelers at the Hungarian / Romanaian border crossing particularly at that hour of the morning (a bit before 8:00am?). A local middle aged man on his fairly basic (but nonetheless fit for purpose) bike arrived during our processing and there was a good laugh all around when one of the border officials appeared to ask him if he was riding to Istanbul as well 😀
Changed the Hungarian Florints that I had to Romanian New Leu – hard to keep track of what the value is in Australian dollars now that we are into our third different currency.
Cruised till lunch on good road surface (95%) flat and with Liz setting a comfortable pace helped by not much adverse wind. In the morning it didn’t seem as hot as the day before but then it was not yet heat of the day. Also perhaps the knowledge that the day’s ride was 20% shorter improved the day’s outlook. Not a lot of traffic to contend with and what there was generally gave us a god wide berth – only the occasional one passed going fast or closer than it needed to. Just the beginnings of a bit of “numb bum” towards the end of the morning.

Navigation is now a lot simpler than on the Danube bike path as although the latter was well sign-posted there were lots of twists and turns and alternatives to sow seeds of doubt where as the current section is pretty much on roads with very few changes of the road to be followed.
Post lunch I was, as on some other days, a bit sluggish – combination of it then being in the hottest part of the day, full stomach and getting the leg muscles moving again. Today reinforced my theory that the last 30% of the distance takes 50% of the effort for the day.





Many in the group feeling the accumulated effects of 3 days riding in hot weather and the riding has become a bit of a chore for some. Despite how much water consumed whilst on the bike – sipping every 10 minutes – one has to consciously work at rehydrating once in camp.
Betuni to Brad (Day 31: 11 August 2015)
It cooled down appreciatively overnight – enough for me to need to drape my sleeping bag over myself in the early hours of the morning.
In large part due to the timezone change (moved one hour ahead in Romania) it was much cooler when we set off at around the usual time of 7:30am. This was a good omen for a great morning’s ride with a good smooth road surface and the hills/mountains of the valley providing stretches of shade (as compared to the sparse and fleeting glimpses of shade on other days). Liz set a comfortable cruisey pace and the gentle undulating hills topped it off with interesting and changing scenery. I guess it is hard for flat countryside to generate and maintain visual interest.


After our mid morning break there was a noticeable deterioration of the road conditions. Signs indicating ongoing road works – the need for which was self-evident.

The middle section of the ride included three moderate hills – a good reminder that life is not all neutral gradients. Unfortunately we couldn’t take much advantage of the usual compensatory downhill runs due to the poor road conditions.

In addition to the improved and more varied scenery it was also good to have more variation in the riding conditions i.e. having to think more about the actual cycling – changing gears etc.

We were in our hotel (pensiune) by 12:00pm. Though a riding day we all stayed in a hotel as no reasonable camping options in the area. So it was sort of like a bonus half rest day with both the extra relaxation time and the convenience of a hotel room.

Just so you don’t think I’m making up the stuff abut the hot weather: News report of Central and eastern Europe simmering in historic heat wave
Brad to Alba Lubia (Day 32: 12 August 2015)
We (Liz, Trond, and myself) started the day slowly as well rolled out of town and kept it that way for the day. Perhaps we were not wanting to get too quickly to the impending climbs (12km and 6 km long).


The first climb was great – some steeper stuff towards the beginning (30km into the ride) but after a while it was quite steady manageable gradient – good surface and being in the early part of the day still not too hot. There was also some shade /cloud cover plus the cooling effect of an increase in altitude on the temperature.
Good rewarding views along the way.

People waited at the top for the others in their riding groups to make it. There was a shared feeling of pleasure in having met the challenge. It was nice to get cold whilst waiting and also on the 16km downhill run before the next climb.


Due to mix up with my cycle computer, I was surprised to find that the second climb was over well before I expected it to be.

Lunch was at the top of the second climb and just under half way (~52km) but unlike preceding days the post-lunch ride was not a chore as it was pretty much downhill for the remaining 54km. I was able to cruise along at a moderate pace without too much effort which also mitigated the effects of the heat a little.


Arrived at hotel by 2pm – just in time for check in. Free laundry included so we were relieved of that chore. Not sure the hotel realises how much laundry each person will have😀
Some of the group reported a few close calls with traffic but fortunately I’ve been lucky on that score.
Total distance to-date 2,347kms (rounded up) – after 32 days (26 riding days)
























Dear Steve, some sense of irony with a couple of your photos :). I wonder what you will do when you return in Canberra – speed cycle a little??
Thank you for the tent photo – Ian would use one of those but I would probably convince myself I needed a slightly larger one.
Thanks for these missives as it means I don’t let myself be too concerned as I can see Trond is there somewhere lol.
Love you lots
Meg
Classic Stephen Williams comment: I generally prefer to let the mind wander and take in the surrounds…
Pretty well sums you up Steve. Remember when you wandered off the mountain in Wilson’s Prom and ended upside down supported by your back pack?