Regensberg-Straubing-Passau-Linz-Emmersdorf(Melk)-Vienna (Days Seventeen to Twenty Three)

Regensburg to Straubing (Tuesday 28  July 2015 Day 17)
This was a very short flat section ~53km and we were in camp by 10:30am

Early on into the day’s ride I told Trond that as it was a short easy day I might stop more often to take photographs (if warranted) and that he should just go on ahead if he wished. A minute or so later he was out of sight 😀.

 

    

I mainly rode with Wei (Susan) from Canada. At one point we had stopped for photographs/drinks and up rode “Bristol Peter” (named so to distinguish him from the two other Peters). Susan says “Ah Peter, we have been waiting for you!” Which was cause for great mirth as he is also known as “Fast Peter” being by far the fastest/strongest rider in the group. Most days we arrive in camp to find Fast Peter well ensconced and already working in his temporary “office”. Many of you will have heard of the concept “Ride to Work”, well Peter practices “Ride ‘n Work” (like “working from home” where the home is a new campsite/hotel that is ridden to each day). The nature and scope of his work would not normally allow him to take the extended time off for holidays such as this ride but with a disciplined approach, excellent fitness and string riding skills, a laptop, Wi-Fi and a phone – as well as opportunity to charge batteries – he manages to fit in both.

Peter (not Bristol Peter) – the most excellent of bike mechanics – fixed the squeaking/creaking noises in my bike (a loose front wheel – those darstedly cobble stones – a contributing factor)

After cleaning the bike (oiled chain, pumped tyres etc. – though not much of the etc.😀) I walked 500 metres from the campsite to the biggest bike store I’ve been to. Someone said it was the biggest in Germany.

On re-entering the campsite I was intrigued to see a caravan being manouvered  into a relatively light parking space however it had been detached from the car and nobody was directly handling it. Just a person a few metres away with a remote control device!

Straubing to Passau (Wednesday 29 July 2015)
The rain which had conveniently started after we went to bed stopped before we arose for the day – the main remnant from the rain was a large slug the tent inner screen. It didn’t rain again until we had set up our tents at the next campsite in Passau.

I discovered that the reflective stripes on the Cycling safety vest issued by TDA can set off the movement activated wash basin taps from 2 metres away.

The cool overcast day with a slight downhill/flat gradient was well set up for a fast ride with Colin, Callum and Trond. It was a good workout and it was good to just focus on the physicality of the ride for a change. Not much was forgone by doing this due to dull overcast light and not much new of photographic interest.

After a quick ~25km there was a welcome break when Trond had a rare flat tyre. Unfortunately he changed it very quickly 😀.

Not long after though we had # 1 mini lunch in Deggendorf ~38km

# 2 mini lunch was at a cafe conveniently sited alongside the bike path ~12km out from Passau.

After setting up our tents in the small and therefore crowded but well sited camping ground we (Bill and myself) wandered into Passau  – where the Donau (Danube) is joined by the Inn river from the south and the Ilz from the north resulting in a substantive increase in the volume and rate of flow of water in the Danube.

Passau (previously Latin: Batavis or Batavia) is a town in Lower Bavaria, Germany. It is also known as the Dreiflüssestadt or “City of Three Rivers,” because the Danube is joined at Passau by the Inn from the south and the Ilz from the north.

Though drizzled whist we roamed Passau (along with multitudes of other tourists – assume many doing boat cruises) we got to see a great example of a baroque church i.e. St Stephen’s cathedral (a common name for cathedrals in this part of the world).

As previously mentioned, the meals cooked by Vilma have been of a high standard and we haven’t yet had the same evening meal twice. I inquired how many more different recipes she’s had remaining. Two was the answer but that’s not bad news as any of the meals so far warrant a second round.

After we had had our fill (and more – seconds are always available) the staff rounded up some other hungry campers (not from our group) and fed them with the delicious left-overs. They have often done this which is a nice and practical gesture – generates goodwill and minimises waste.

That evening Bill and myself went back into town and found a small pleasant local cafe with free Wi-Fi paid for with a few glasses of wine (Bill) and cups of tea (me). The person (German heritage) serving had grown up in Malawi and lived in the U.S. before returning “home”.

Passau to Linz (Thursday 30 July 2015)

 

5kms into the day’s ride we crossed into Austria. As with the so called border crossing from France to Germany it was a case of blink and you’ll miss it. Passport not needed and in fact there was no where to get it stamped if you wanted to.

Trond and myself rode at a good (but not demanding) cruising pace. For the most part of the morning it was stunningly spectacular scenery – rode along just drinking it in. A good thing getting better – like starting a good book and realizing you have hours of reading pleasure left – it was great to know that there was a few hours of enjoyable riding to go with cool pleasant temperature, excellent smooth surface and downhill/flat all the way. In summary it was a day to revel in the joy of cycling. The cycling equIvalent of hitting the sweet spot. I think you get the idea that I enjoyed the morning ride.😀😀

  
  
With mountains on both side the bike path stuck to the valley hugging the river most of the way. After about 70-75km we crossed over to the north side of the river (a bit earlier than the prescribed route) and the valley opened up. Started to see a lot more people fishing from the banks of the river.

At one point we passed a sign referring to “Zentrum” I said “Didn’t we pass Zentrum the other day?” Well, yes said Trond. However, Zentrum means “centre”😀!

Just before heading to camp we (Liz, Trond, and myself) popped into the central plaza of Linz – ticked that box and then rode on.

As for the night before, the campsite was small/tightly packed. Not all campers  understood one of the immutable Laws of Camping (akin to the Laws of Nature) and that is “If you can hear the noise you are making then so can your fellow campers.”

Linz to Emmersdorf (Friday 31 July 2015)

 

The day started picturesque as on most days but after about 18km some of use took a diversion to the  Mauthausen-Gusen concentration camp.

The approach to the camp was a 14% climb over 1km – I thought it was appropriate that we make something of an effort to get there.

Recently I came across the expression “Humankind – be both”; well this place could be summarised as “Humankind – neither”.

After a couple of hours at Mauthausen, Gill and Debbie and myself were the last to depart so we rode along with Gergö who was the riding sweep for the day. It seemed strange to still have 75% of the riding distance to go at 11:15am i.e. Normally 2/3s of the ride would be done by then.

We joined up with Cathy, Graham and Ben and Susan at Grein (where we stopped for our second and main lunch). It was straight through after that – the legs and lungs got another short sharp work out on an 18% ramp onto bridge just before camp where we arrived at around 4:00pm.

Emmersdorf to Vienna (Saturday 1 August 2015)

We were subject to strong gusty headwinds and crosswinds from the start of the day – with only brief periods of respite. Early on the scenery provided a pleasant distraction.

    
  
However what would have normally been the best seats in the house I.e path right alongside the river, was often completely exposed to the full brunt of the wind. Like portrait paintings where the eyes are always looking at you the  wind always seemed to be a headwind or a crosswind. Such riding conditions test one’s mental strength as much as physical riding toughness. Also it was not just impact on effective riding speed (less distance covered in a given time though more effort required) but also the constant roaring sound of the wind in your ears.

Today was just Trond and myself though at times the pairing wasn’t obvious – as the imaginary rope attached to the back of Trond’s bike from mine stretched long and thin at times.

So after 17 riding days (21 days in all including rest days) I’ve ridden just under 1,600km (1596.85 to be more precise).

That afternoon the long awaited arrival of Matt, Bill’s son eventuated.

Vienna (Rest Days Sunday 2 & Monday 3 August 2015)

Having sussed out how to use the metro underground the preceding day we (Bill, Matt and myself) headed into the centre of town for a sample of Vienna’s museums. Matt’s superior navigation skills were a great boon.

First stop was Stefansdom (St Stephen’s Cathedral – yes another such named one) but being a Sunday morning a service was underway. As we didn’t want to add to the distracting noise of tourists lingering at the back of the church we did not stay long.

So onto the Kaisergruft – the imperial crypt which unexpectedly contained some somewhat bizarre sarcophagi.

  

The Albertina Museum contained more expected but nonetheless interesting items. Spent most time in the Monet to Picasso exhibition and countered that with a bit of Bacon, Warhol and Richter.

  
    

Lunch was more expensive than usual but it was good food in a busy tourist packed outdoor restaurant on one of the main tourist thoroughfares.

 

Rested and refueled we put in a couple of hours at the Kunsthistorisches Museum and amongst other things took in a bit of Rubens, Raphael and Brueghel.

  
    
However the highlight of the day was the Mozart Ensemble concert at the Mozart Haus. Bill had rounded up 18 interested members of the group to attend what turned out to be an excellent concert in a very intimate setting. The venue held just 66 people and we had front and second row seats – I was just 2 metres from the nearest of the four musicians (and only 4-5 metres from the farthest). It was 100% unplugged – no amplification at all and not required being a small venue with great acoustics. It was great to be able to see up close the intricate interplay between the excellent musicians (two violins, viola and cello). They performed four pieces over a 90 minute duration.  

  

With the arrival of Matt (Bill’s son) I switched roommates on Monday – I now have the pleasure of Richard’s company. Richard (from Ireland) is another of the nine new riders joining us for the  next section of the ride. Sadly Colin and Callum finished their riding stint.

Vienna was a two day stopover so more “Culture” was on the itinerary for Rest Day #Two.

Imperial Treasury (Schatzkammer)

 

Belvedere (Upper)

In addition to the main attraction of Gustav Klimt’s “The Kiss” also took in a it of Rodin, and some more Monet, Renoir, Van Gogh and a Rodin.

As one entered there was a life size replica of The Kiss for people to take selfies at at as no photography was allowed inside.